Banteay Samre, Cambodia
Copyright © Timothy Tye. Stock Photo for Sale
Banteay Samre
Cambodia
Banteay Samre can be described as a smaller, better preserved version of Angkor Wat. Due to its relative isolation, much fewer visitors go to Banteay Samre compared to Angkor Wat, but it is very much worth a visit, for the opportunity to explore an Angkor ruin without the throngs of tourists around you.
Banteay Samre was built in the first half of the 12th century, began during the reign of King Suryavarman II, who also built Angkor Wat, which explains the similarities in style, and completed during the reign of King Yasovarman II. Banteay Samre comprises a main tower over a sanctuary. This is connected by corridors called antarala to antechambers called mandapa. Two "libraries" flank the central structure, and the whole ensemble is surrounded by concentric galleries.
Just like Angkor Wat, Banteay Samre is also approached through a long causeway. On either sides are naga balustrades and guardian lions, similar to those at Angkor Wat. The outer enclosure of the temple measures 83 meters by 77 meters while the inner enclosure measures 44 meters by 38 meters.
Banteay Samre is said to have been named after a people called Samré who lived at the foot of Mount Kulen. The people living in the village of Pradak (which you'd pass on your way to Banteay Samre) are said to be their descendents.
There is a story associated with Banteay Samre. Once upon a time, there was a poor farmer named Pou. He planted sweet cucumbers from seeds he received through some supernatural way. When he got his first harvest, he presented it to the king, who found it so sweet that he wanted it all for himself. He commanded Pou to kill anybody who enters the cucumber field.
One night during the rainy season, cucumbers were scarce. The king, impatient to taste the cucumbers, sneeked into the cucumber field himself. Pou, not realising it was the king, speared and killed the "thief" and buried him in the field. The king had no direct descendants, so his noblemen resorted to divine intervention. They sent out his white elephant. The elephant stopped in front of Pou, and paid homage to him by lowering his trunk between its feet and knelt. The noblemen took this as a sign, and enthroned Pou as king.
On becoming king, Pou exhumed the corpse of his predecessor and gave it a funeral ceremony at the East Mebon, followed by the rites of cremation at Pre Rup.
King Pou, however, was faced difficulties in controlling the court dignitaries. Feeling humiliated at being governed by a lowly farmer, they expressed their discontent by refusing to show respect to him. Pou, feeling powerless to discipline them, left the Royal Palace and went to live in solitude at Banteay Samre. There, King Pou issue a decree to have all those who humiliated him beheaded. After that incident, his reign continued peacefully.
When Banteay Samre was discovered, it was overrun with vegetation. Restorers using anastylosis - a restoration process of dismantling, reassembling and replacing vital lost pieces - has brought out the beauty of Banteay Samre. When I visited it with Chooi Yoke, we found that the temple was very well kept. The lawns were neat and tidy, and there were workers upkeeping the place.
Banteay Samre was restored after a similar project was carried out on the much smaller (but perhaps even more exquisite) Banteay Srei. The knowledge and experience gained from the Banteay Srei project provided restorers the confidence to execute the task at Banteay Samre.
No inscription was found on Banteay Samre to accurately pinpoint its construction date. Nevertheless, judging from the style of its construction, Banteay Samre is believed to have been built around the time of Angkor Wat, that is, towards the middle of the 12th century.
Visitors to Banteay Samre arrive at the northern side of the monument. From there, you walk to the main entrance to the east. At the east is a 200 metre causeway with naga balustrades and stone lions at regular intervals. The pools on both sides of the causeway have long gone.
